Lost in Yonkers

Getty Square in Yonkers, New York

Getty Square in Yonkers, New York

I love my childhood home — Yonkers, N.Y., a gritty industrial city on the banks of the lower Hudson River, where I lived from age 3 through the end of my college years. I’ve still got family there.

I’ve many fond memories of the place. Every time I visit, including last week, I take time to drive through my old neighborhoods in South Yonkers: Seminary Hill, where I lived in the now-razed Mulford Gardens public housing complex; Park Hill, the old Italian neighborhood, where I went to school and where my father grew up; Nodine Hill, which had many Eastern European families when I lived there; and Getty Square, where I spent many boyhood hours at the main branch of the Yonkers Public Library and  fondly remember shopping at the three department/variety stores at the heart of that old business district, Green’s, Grant’s and Woolworth’s.

Getty Square and the neighborhoods have seen better days. There’s a lot of crime and poverty. Much of the housing is rundown and dilapidated.  It wasn’t an affluent place when I lived there years ago. And it’s less affluent now.

The ethnic and racial make-up of South Yonkers had changed, too. Both Park Hill and Nodine HIll now have populations that are mostly Latino, the latest in wave in the waves of immigrants who have come to seek a better life in America — just like my Italian grandparents when they left their impoverished and isolated village of Scerni in the province of Chieti.

Deep racial and ethnic divisions in my old city resulted several decades ago in traumatic battles in federal court over housing and school desegregation and equality. Sadly, as I was reminded again recently, those racial and ethnic divisions — and the accompanying ignorance and hatred — still remain.

A few years ago, I discovered a Facebook page called South Yonkers Photos, which featured great old photos of my old stomping grounds — now-defunct movie theaters and stores, old buses I rode so frequently, buildings now fallen victim to the wrecking ball…great stuff…I don’t know who created and runs the site, but I’ve loved visiting the page and looking at the vintage images of bygone days in a city that, in a certain sense, no longer exists.

Recently, a photo of a school play at St. Mary’s School prompted a comment from someone who remembered taking part in those school plays — including one in which some pupils were painted in blackface and performed an Al Jolson number, and then had to work home through Getty Square while still wearing that offensive makeup.

Another “friend” of the Facebook site then opined (I paraphrase) that it was a good thing that back in those days African-Americans were still referred to not as black people but as “colored.” To which she added: “LOL!”

Then,  a few days ago, the proprietor of the Facebook site posted a photo of thousands of Latino people, probably Mexican, celebrating Cinco de Mayo. The caption described the festivities as taking place in Getty Square.

The clear implication was that this was a commentary on the notion that Spanish-speaking immigrants have “taken over” or “overrun” or even “ruined” our beloved, old, used-to-be-mostly-white city of Yonkers.

I posted a comment on this thinly-veiled racism, calling it insensitive at best, bigoted at worst.

The only response: The same woman who posted the commented about “colored” people replied with a sarcastic slur written in pidgin Italian!

When I checked back a few hours later to see whether the unidentified person behind “South Yonkers Photos” on Facebook had perhaps risen to the occasion, had maybe taken a stand on the side of tolerance and against racial and ethnic hate, what did I find?

I found that I’d been “unfriended” — blocked from access to the Facebook page.

Here’s a quote for these small-minded people to ponder as they seethe and stew and angrily snipe at anyone who doesn’t look like them or speak like them or believe like them. It’s the greatest commandment, the most golden of rules: “Love one another.”

A bookish boy returns home

Yes, I was a bookish boy. And I was a baseball boy, first baseman and outfield in the Park Hill Little League. That’s why, when I was 9 years old and discovered the majestic old main branch of the Yonkers, N.Y., Public Library, at the corner of North Broadway and Nepperhan, I naturally gravitated to shelves where I was soon afflicted with my first reading addiction: a series of old, 1950s-vintage sports biographies of New York City baseball stars for the Yankees, Dodgers and Giants.

The Dodgers and Giants were long-gone to the West Coast, but these books had stayed behind. I read biographies of famous Yankees like Yogi and Whitey, as well as Monte Irvin, Carl Furillo, Pee Wee Reese, Duke Snider (I still remember that he owned an AVOCADO FARM in California), Whitey Lockman…the list goes on, and I’m sure it still brings a twinge to the heavy hearts of jilted fans of the “Jints” and “Dem Bums” of those exotic mythical lands called Coogan’s Bluff and Flatbush.

I devoured each and every one of several dozen sports biographies. Then I moved on the books about the history of Yonkers, which fascinated me then and still does now, with its Dutch origins and its hardscrabble industrial past, with its waves of immigrants and its majestic setting on the Hudson River, my City of Seven Hills, with its glories and its tragedies, where my ancestors are buried, my City of Gracious Living.

And then I discovered the library’s fiction section — thousands of novels! — and my whole world changed.

Last week I had the pleasure and honor of giving a reading at the main branch of the Yonkers Public Library, offering excerpts from my novella “Rip,” signing copies, answering questions about my writing, and meeting some very nice people.

It’s not the library I grew up with, a majestic granite structure, built with Carnegie money, which was torn down for a highway expansion. The new main branch is a shiny new four- or- five-story state-of-the-art facility, complete with huge windows offering stunning views of the Hudson River and its Palisades.

But my visit still conjured memories of dark winter afternoons when I’d leave the library with an armload of books, heading home for supper, walking a few blocks up Nepperhan past the Polish Community Center to Elm Street, then trudging four blocks up steep Nodine Hill, the city water tower looming at the crest of the steep incline, passing grocery stores and dry cleaners and pizza places and the hardware store and the bread bakery, until my books and I reached Oliver Avenue and home.

I made that walk and carried books away from that old library so many times that I really can remember every step along the way — but not once, I’m certain, did it ever occur to me that I might write books, that people in my hometown might want to hear me read from my books, ask me about how I wrote them, ask me to sign copies…I never imagined that someday one of my books would reside on a shelf at the Yonkers Public Library…Maybe even now there’s someone walking home with an armful of books on a dark winter afternoon, and maybe one of those books is mine.

Night (and day) of the iguana

Seen on the street in Yonkers this morning, right there in plain sight, right there in the gutter: a BIG dead green lizard, which (not being a lizard expert) I’m guessing was someone’s escaped or discarded pet — perhaps an iguana. I looked at the dead lizard and had an epiphany…a realization…an awareness…

I thought: “Never in my life have I ever seen a dead lizard, in the gutter, in the morning, in the streets of Yonkers…”

Little Sarah Palin

Some of you have asked if I was surprised when Sarah Palin became governor of Alaska and then ran for vice president of the United States and then became a Fox News commentator. Was I surprised? You betcha! I mean, who wouldn’t be surprised? After all, this is little Sarah Palin, the cute and spunky little girl with the big eyeglasses who sat next to me in my kindergarten class at P.S. 9 in my old hometown of Yonkers, New York.

Not only did Sarah sit next to me in her little desk  right alongside my own  little kindergarten desk. She also lay down next to me at nap time when our teacher, Miss  Crabtree, instructed us all to roll out our mats and take a 10-minute nap to rest up after our busy morning of learning the alphabet, learning to count, and learning to get along with all of the other kids.

You probably guessed, though, that Sarah didn’t nap. Sure, she rolled out her mat when Miss Crabtree told us to. But then Sarah just sprawled out on her back, eyes wide open, resting the back of her head on her arms, and just gazed up at the ceiling through those big designer eyeglasses, and smiled that big  smile we’ve all come to know and love.

It  occurs to me now that little Sarah Palin was smiling because she already knew that someday she would move to Alaska and become governor and then run for vice president and then become a Fox commentator and then maybe someday become the first woman president even though all of the so-called smart people thought the first woman president would be Hillary Clinton.

I’m thinking that I actually played a role in a somewhat historic event…It may well be that the first time Sarah ever winked that  famous wink, she winked at me! Except she was probably thinking about the great life she had ahead of her — while I thought she was flirting!

Long story short, after nap time it was finger painting time, so we all put on our painting smocks and stepped up to our easels. Miss Crabtree looked at Sarah’s finger painting creation — the entire sheet was covered with gray paint — and asked Sarah was it was called. I’ll never forget Sarah’s reply: “Gee whiz, Miss Crabtree, can’t you tell”! It’s a close-up of a gray elephant!!”

That’s when Sarah winked at me. I melted faster than a glacier in the Bering Sea.

My own big sheet of paper was slathered with red paint.  Miss Crabtree asked, “Nicky, what’s the name of your painting?” I replied, “Red.”

But what it was really called, although I was just too shy to say it, was “Valentine for Little Sarah Palin.”

Little Sarah Palin… Politically precocious. My first crush. Killer wink.

Be it ever so humble…

Home, sweet home. This photo by Rob Yasinac (who's got a great Web site at www.hudsonvalleyruins.org, shows one of the apartment buildings at Mulford Gardens in Yonkers, New York. I lived at Mulford Gardens when I was a boy. Now the public-housing complex is being razed.

Home, sweet home. This photo by Rob Yasinac (who's got a great Web site at www.hudsonvalleyruins.org, shows one of the apartment buildings at Mulford Gardens in Yonkers, New York. I lived at Mulford Gardens when I was a boy. Now the public-housing complex is being razed.

Why does it make me just a bit melancholy to read that the old Mulford Gardens public-housing projects in Yonkers, N.Y, is finally being demolished? Because I grew up in Yonkers. And because I lived in the Mulford Gardens complex with my parents and my sister — we moved there when I was four years old and left when I was eight, apparently because my young father’s income had passed some maximum threshhold that made him no longer eligible to live in public housing.

You would think that was a good thing, and I suppose it was. We moved to an apartment in Nodine Hill section of the city, in the shadow of the city’s landmark water tower, to a neighborhood that was then largely Ukrainian, Russian, Czech and Polish with a considerable number of Italians who had spilled over from the adjacent Park Hill neighborhood.

We lived on Nodine Hill until I was about thirteen years old, when my parents bought their own house in solidly middle-class/working class neighborhood called Bryn Mawr about midway between the Saw Mill River Parkway — which serves as Yonkers’ “tracks” to live on the other side of, which became a focus of much sorrow and strife about ten years later, when the city was torn apart by battles over housing and school desegregation).

So what is it about the demolition of Mulford Gardens that makes me melancholy? It’s nostalgia, I suppose. The place as actually kind of nice when we lived there.  The units were three-story brick buildings (with a ground-floor basement) with four, five or six units to a building — for instance, the block we lived in began with 10 Mulford Gardens and ended with 13 Mulford Gardens; we lived on the third floor of unit 12; there were seven apartments per unit (two on each floor, and one on the basement level). Mind you, it wasn’t luxurious. The walls — the interior walls — were painted cinderblock. The stairways in the halls were made of steel. Our apartment was small — four small rooms (kitchen, living room, two bedrooms, bathroom). But outside each unit people had flower gardens. There was a park, Grant Park, nearby. It was a 10-minute walk away from Getty Square, the old downtown commercial district.

And, best of all, and I can remember this so clearly even though I was so young — the apartment building we lived in was high atop Seminary Hill, at the very highest section of Mulford Gardens, which had hundreds of apartments spread over the hillside, and from our kitchen window I could see the vast sweep of the crowded city of Yonkers spread out before me. I could see the cupola of St. Joseph’s Seminary to the east. I could see straight ahead the water tower at the peak of Nodine Hill, I could see church spires all over the city, and apartment buildings and small houses crowded together on the hills and in the ravines of the city. To my right, looking west, I could see the distant Palisades cliffs along the Hudson, and (as my mother remembered last night when we spoke about the old days at Mulford Gardens), I was a precocious, observant little boy, and I would sit at the window, looking out at the lights all over the city, and I’d point out that in the distance, to the south, there was the Empire State Building, and there, those flickering, glittering lights strung out in a row, that was the George Washington Bridge!

Mulford Gardens became a different place in the years after we left. It was about 25 years old when we lived there and it’s now more than 60 years since the place was built, replacing a poor neighborhood that I believe was mainly occupied by poor blacks and Irish immigrants who had jobs at the nearby Alexander Smith carpet mills.

The buildings at Mulford Gardens deteriorated and crumbled. The place became fertile ground for crime, drugs, gangs, poverty, you name it, and probably the only good things that came out of the Yonkers projects in the last twenty years were a couple of folks named Mary J. Blige and DMX.

You know, even when we lived there, people were relatively poor — you had to be kind of poor to live there, after all. And I do remember things — like constantly burning my leg accidentally on the exposed radiators in those spartan apartments.

But I also remember one winter day, and there was huge snowstorm, must have been a blizzard because my father stayed home from work, and we had no food in the house, and my young mother and father left me with an elderly neighbor who came upstairs to our apartment to babysit me while they were gone, and my young parents bundled up and trudged out into the storm, and I watched as they made their way down the hill toward the Ashburton Market about four blocks away, and I watched and I watched and stared into the swirling snow and finally, finally, I spotted my father and mother, both carrying bags of groceries, leaning into the wind and slowly returning up the hill, and I remember clearly that I moved forward a little and, sure enough, burned my leg on that damned steam radiator, but that was alright because it was warm in that little apartment at Mulford Gardens and that made the windows steam up, but I wiped the window pane with my hand and there were my young parents looking up at the window, and they were waving to me, and they were just in the mid-twenties and still so much in love, but that was long ago, and my father died six years ago, and so now it’s time to wave goodbye to Mulford Gardens and the steam radiators and the steel stairways and the cinderblock walls and the cold and impersonal brick buildings.

But my parents will always be walking up that hill through the storm, and the Empire State will always loom on the horizon, and the lights of the George Washington Bridge will twinkle and sparkle forever, off there in the distance, glowing forever in my mind.

Huckleberry friends

Yes, I’m sentimental. For instance, I just heard Bruce Springsteen’s “Independence Day,” in which a son is telling his father that he’s leaving home, that it’s the only way to end their constant quarrels, that maybe the problem is that they’re too different from each other — and too much alike.

So I found myself getting a little teary as I listened, thinking that I hope my son and I never part ways like the father and son in that song. Well, that’s not too bad, right? I mean, we’re talking about a powerful, emotional song by Bruce Springsteen.

But what about getting a little choked up every I watch the ending of “It’s a Wonderful Life,” when everyone brings George all that money and his hero brother even flies home through a blizzard? What about getting a little choked up when Ralph sells his bowling ball to buy Alice a present and the finds out that Alice has been secretly working to earn money to buy Ralph a new bowling bag?

My problem may be genetic. I can remember sitting with my mother watching an old movie on TV, I think when I was in high school, and the two of us sat sniffling as we watched the old Greer Garson tearjerker, “Stella Dallas.” And the other day, as I scanned the channels on my Sirius/XM radio receiver, what did I encounter but “Moon River,” performed by Mantovani and his orchestra! My father loved that sappy but beautiful song, and he owned the “Moon River” record albums by Mantovani and by Andy Williams.

An aside: I have a bootleg recording of an early 1990s Dylan concert in which he announces that his next song’s dedicated to a friend who just died: the song Dylan sang was “Moon River” and the departed friend was the great bluesman Stevie Ray Vaughan.

So I’m a sentimental fool, just like my father, and that song “Moon River” still resonates so much in my mind that my novel “Half Moon” ends with the narrator’s parents standing on a hilltop, and a half-moon rising, and a single moonbeam shining down like a spotlight as the young couple dances to the strains of “Moon River.”

Another aside: There are two famous songs with mysterious references I’ve never been able to figure out.

I’ve asked people, I’ve researched, I’ve Googled. but I’ve never found the meaning of the phrase “buckdancer’s choice,” which is from my favorite “Grateful Dead” song “Uncle John’s Band.” A buck dance may be synonymous with buck-and-wing, which is type of solo tap dancing associated with the South. But what’s a buckdancer’s choice?

And the other mystery is the meaning of the phrase from “Moon River,” in which the singer addresses “my huckleberry friend.” Is it a reference to actual berries? I think there’s really a berry called the huckleberry, right? Is it a reference to the novel “Huckleberry Finn?” Is it a reference to Huckleberry Hound?

I’ve read a few suggestions that the Moon River in the song may refer to the Mississippi River, that the song’s singer may actually be Huck’s friend loyal companion Jim, that the phrase “huckleberry friend” may actually refer to Huck Finn’s simple, dreamy view of life, while the whole song expresses the slave Jim’s dreams of escape and freedom.

I personally think this is incredible nonsense — amusing, but nonsense nevertheless. We’re talking about a song written by Johnny Mercer for the film version of Truman Capote’s “Breakfast at Tiffany’s,” and I’d say it’s a durned fer stretch to connect Jim and Huck via “Moon River” to a movie starring the elegant Audrey Hepburn. In fact, it’s enough to make a body ashamed of the whole human race.

But, my huckleberry friends, it doesn’t really matter what it’s supposed to mean. What matters is what it means to me, when I hear “Moon River,” and I can still see and hear my father singing along as his Mantovani album spins on the turntable of his beloved hi-fi record player.

Pax et bonum

Approaching the winter of my discontent, I find myself thinking more often about the springtime of my life, and yes, you’re right, that sounds disturbingly like one of John-Boy’s mawkish opening voice-overs for “The Waltons,” and so I’ll get a grip right now and get right to my point:

I never knew the name of the order of nuns who operated the grade school I attended in Yonkers, N.Y., the now-defunct Our Lady of Mount Carmel-St. Anthony School on Linden Street.

Occasionally those days will come to mind, and I’ll remember classmates and teachers, and I’ll wonder what ever became of them, but I’ll leave it at that — still wondering.

This time, though, I actually acted on my wondering, wandered through the Internet a little bit, doing Google searches for nuns and Yonkers and Our Lady of Mount Carmel, sent off an emailed inquiry to a promising address, and, behold, I have received tidings of great joy — unto me, surely, has come an email from Sister Suzanne Fondini, provincial of the Missionary Franciscan Sisters, who tells me that sisters from her order did, indeed, open, operate and teach at my old grammar school.

I emailed her back just now, thanked her, and told her I was among the first group of pupils in the school’s first year — it opened with only first through fourth grades, adding one grade and one teacher per year until it reached eight grades; so I was in the first third-grade class and in the second class of graduating eighth-graders. I asked about a few teachers I remembered — Sister Aileen, who I heard a few years ago was doing some kind of mission work in lower Manhattan, and Sister Carmine, our fifth-grade teacher who told us a memorable story, over the course of a full school year, about one her former pupils, a boy named Carl, and his valiant but losing battle against leukemia.

Here’s hoping I hear more from Sister Suzanne about my former teachers at Our Lady of Mount Carmel-St. Anthony School.

The school’s clumsy name had to do with the fact that there were two “rival” Roman Catholic churches in the neighborhood, literally a block apart. One (St. Anthony’s) was started on Willow Street in the late 19th century or early 20th century by an early wave of Italian arrivals in Yonkers. The other (Our Lady of Mount Carmel) was started maybe in the 1920s, and was bigger, and had a larger congregation, and was where my father was baptized and my parents had their wedding, and was on Park Hill, a few blocks up from Waverly Street, where my father grew up and where my Italian grandparents lived for more than 50 years. Waverly was a block away from Linden Street, where my old school was located until the New York diocese shut it down a few years ago.

Anyway, one last thought: Pax et bonum.

Sister Suzanne ended her note with those traditional Franciscan words of greeting and farewell, supposedly used by St. Francis of Assisi himself to begin and end his sermons. The Latin words mean “Peace and all good (be with you).”

To which I respond to Sister Suzanne: Et cum spíritu tuo.

Sarah Palin, Bob Dylan and the Federation of Light (and, oh, did I mention the Apocalypse?)

OK. I admit it. My name is Nicholas D. and I am addicted to continually checking to see how many daily, weekly and monthly visits have been recorded by the ever-increasing legion of fans who faithfully read World of Wonders.

OK. I’m indulging in a bit of hyperbole. “Legion” might be a stretch and “fans” might be overstating my case. But I started this blog and this Web site just about three months ago, and all I can say is I’ll be damned – hundreds and hundreds of people have found this site and taken the time to read my writing, and the number (and this I’m not exaggerating) of visitors has ALREADY DOUBLED for the month of October.

Doubled? Doubled! How did that happen? I’d like to think it has something to do with a spreading public perception that I’m a provocative, witty, entertaining and shockingly under-published writer of essays and fiction.

But I also know that whenever I write about certain topics, search-engine generated visits soar. A lot of people google various terms and expressions and topics related to death, for example. A decent number of people have found my site when they looking for information about my old hometown of Yonkers, N.Y.  A lot of “hits” have resulted when I wrote about the great singer and activist Pete Seeger or when I’ve described my travels in the great state of Vermont.

But four topics have proven to be the hottest topics of all: Bob Dylan, UFO visits by the Federation of Light, Sarah Palin and the Book of Revelation’s description of the Apocalypse. Anytime I mention one of those topics, I generate hundreds more visits to my Web site.

So that’s why it’s incredibly fortunate that I just happened be browsing the Web and found this news report that I’m sure everyone’s already talking about:

Sarah Palin has announced that she’s left Todd Palin, and is moving out of their home in Alaska, and is moving to Malibu to live with her new boyfriend Bob Dylan. What’s more, when Bob Dylan and Sarah Palin held a joint conference this morning in Alabama, where Dylan was performing and Palin was campaigning, they also announced that Palin had been appointed ruler “of Alaska and Russia and all of the rest of those other countries that I know are out there” by the leaders of our great alien masters, the Federation of Light, and that Dylan had been give the job of writing the new world anthem.  Palin also added, and I quote,”Thanks to the great folks with the Federation of Light, and I’d specifically like to mention Andy the Alien and Eddie the E.T. and Ray the Ray Gun Operator, those great alien mavericks, we’ve also managed to postpone what would have been the Apocalypse if we hadn’t complied with our alien friends of the Federation of Light!”

Don’t believe me? Can thousands of readers of Nicholas DiGiovanni’s World of Wonders be wrong?

Meltdown

Sad news: Tom Carvel’s first ice-cream stand is closing. It’s in Hartsdale, N.Y., just over the border from by old hometown of Yonkers, N.Y.  

According to the Associated Press:

The suburban New York store where Tom Carvel launched his ice cream empire is set to close after more than 70 years. Current owner Abdol Faghihi says he’s extremely sad about shuttering the Hartsdale store, but it’s closing Sunday night to make way for a new restaurant. Original plans called for maintaining a small Carvel shop, but Faghihi says the redevelopment was scaled back.

Tom Carvel’s ice cream truck got a flat tire on Hartsdale’s Central Avenue in 1934. He was forced to pull over and did such brisk business that two years later, he opened an ice cream stand on the spot, about 25 miles north of Manhattan. The brand became famous for ice cream cakes with such themes as Fudgie the Whale. It’s now sold in more than 500 Carvel stores and 8,500 supermarkets nationwide.

The first Carvel ice-cream stand in Hartsdale, N.Y.

The first Carvel ice-cream stand in Hartsdale, N.Y.

I used to go “get Carvel” at the place in Hartsdale and at another Carvel stand in Ardsley off the Saw Mill River Parkway. I talked to Tom Carvel years ago when a magazine where I worked wrote about him. And, of course, there’s always a Yonkers connection and a DiGiovanni connection: The world headquarters of Carvel is in Yonkers and Tom Carvel is buried at Ferncliff Cemetery in Hartsdale, where my father is interred in the mausoleum and where all of the residents can eat as much Fudgie the Whale Cake as their hearts’ desire and never, ever have to worry about their cholesterol.

Lest we forget

This is the latest in a series of essays titled “Man Has Premonition of Own Death”

How is it possible to forget when your own father died? I’m not talking about the day or the month. I’m talking about the year! I can never even remember what year it was when my father died! Thank God for Google and online newspaper archives. Here’s my father’s obituary, which was printed in his local daily newspaper:

DIGIOVANNI, NICK J. – Nick J. DiGiovanni, age 69, a lifetime resident of Yonkers, passed away September 24, 2002 at Sound Shore Medical Center, New Rochelle, NY. Mr. DiGiovanni was born in Yonkers, NY, on December 18, 1932 to the late Nicola and the late Luisa DiGiovanni. He served honorably in the US Air Force (1952-1956) and afterwards, was employed as a programmer for the Yonkers Board of Education. He is survived by his beloved wife…his devoted children…and his eight loving grandchildren…Wake to be held Friday, September 27, 2002 from 2-4 and 7-9 pm at SINATRA MEMORIAL HOME, INC, 601 Yonkers Avenue, Yonkers, NY. A Religious Service will be conducted at the Funeral Home Chapel at 1 pm on Saturday, September 28, 2002, followed by entombment at Ferncliff Cemetery, Hartsdale.

Do you believe in ghosts? Today I got this feeling, started thinking about my father and trying to remember when he died, and decided to google his obituary — and today is Sept. 24, which happens to be the sixth anniversary of my father’s death.

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